Stephenson Family Ties

is for hiking Havasupi.


Why is writing about Havasupi so difficult for me?
It's a place worth writing about and describing.
For years I have been attempting to capture the place with words. And success alludes me. Have you ever tried to describe watermelon to someone who doesn't know what it is? (You're doing it in your head right now I bet) This is how it feels to me in trying to capture the essence of Havasupi.
Words come easily when I tell you where Havasupi is- Arizona, Grand Canyon. Who is easy too- anyone that would like to go, is welcome to come along with me. I've gone with family, friends and strangers.
When is also simple- I go when its the very hottest, so that I can tolerate the COLD water of this amazing place. (It is all about the water) Now once again I am left with the last two questions which stump me every time. What is Havasupi and Why Havasupi??
It is more than a destination. That is for sure. For me it is truly about the journey. Each year the journey begins before I even get in the car to head south. It is as much a mental journey as it is a physical quest . Everyone knows that I am NOT a camper. I appreciate a good mattress and clean socks and good food. I much prefer a Marriott to the hard ground of the great outdoors. This is part of the mystery of the enticement I feel for Havasupi. Every summer I feel this magnetic pull towards this canyon that has been ripped and eroded by water over millions of years.
So my sojourn really begins with a trip to the grocery store to find a variety of lightweight food to keep me energized throughout my venture.And always keeping in mind that I have to carry this (nourishment) in on my back. Lightweight items are the key. Which results in a vast majority of my food-stuffs being of the dehydrated variety. (which is not famous for its detectability) This is another hint that this experience is NOT about the food either. It turns out that its also NOT about how or where I sleep. While at the store shopping for food, I also will be sure to pick up the $1.98 pool savvy air mattresses. 2 of them. One for sleeping on and the other as a back up or for play. (I'll not be packing them out on my back, but will leave them behind for someone else to use) In addition to the air mattresses, I take a sheet and a thin plastic paint tarp to use in case of rain in the night. This is my sleeping boudoir!! Fancy!!!! All that's left to haul in is a swim suit and water shoes/hiking shoes, ie: a few toiletries, a flashlight and sunscreen and shorts. Thats it!! I travel as light as possible. Remember- it MY back!!
The six hour drive to the edge of the Canyon, is the pits! I've always begun the drive at 10:30 PM, in the dark of night. The only 'magic' in the journey to the rim would be if one is lucky enough to spot some elk- HUGE ELK (didn't know Heavenly Father allowed them to get so darn big!!)The beasts are found along that last 30+ mile solitary road. Seeing those elk is a gift, and I haven't been blessed to see them every time I've been through there,but I have seen them a time or two. I guess that's what makes it so special when I do get the chance.
When I arrive at the rim, its still dark. It's usually about 4:30 AM when we park and pull our stuff from the trunk. Sometimes the full moon cooperates and is still hanging there in the sky, but not every time. The backpack is strapped on, the flashlights are switched on, and the decent begins. At first glance it appears your headed into a dark abyss, because you cant see to the bottom of the canyon. But as you soon learn, the motto of the morning will be- press on, and on and on. This is the beginning of your introduction to the infamous switchback. Here is where we find the one mile section of the hike that is the most strenuous-both coming and going!! duh!-it's straight up or straight down. Going down, its all about the footing,seeing as you're in the dark, with a heavy pack on your back. Climbing out is a whole different story- its all about stamina and pacing yourself and surviving!
Its 11 miles to the camp ground, through wondrous scenery and it's really not too difficult, once you're down from that dang switchback.
And here is where I break down in the telling of my 'connection' to Havasupi. It is so difficult for me to tell you of the wonder of this place. (remember the watermelon?) It is a real oasis in the middle of a desert and in what seems to be the middle of nowhere.(I guess it really IS out in tim-buck-too) I can leave my cares at the top. The completion of this feat is a 'benchmark' of sorts for me. The switchback is a site to behold. Will my body do what I ask of it once again? The 4 waterfalls are not of this world. Or at least not of a desert world. After I have spent 2-3 days down there with the water and the Indians and friends and family and all the hiking, I truly do feel renewed in some strange way. When I trudge out of there, I know that I have accomplished something! Something notable for myself! I know that I have succeeded for one more year to stay fit enough to do something special and unique. I guess its a pilgrimage of sorts. To renew both body and soul. Or to challenge it in ways that I haven't at any other time of the year. I am so very grateful for the great health I enjoy and for such a magical place that is practically in my own backyard! I truly am a very blessed woman!!